Exotic Istanbul

We flew into Ataturk airport (2 hours 40 minutes from Copenhagen) and entered another world. Istanbul is an intense, masculine city filled with vibrant color, aggressive, super friendly passionate
people. We walked miles every day, rode trams, trains, buses and took refreshing boat rides exploring the city

Our first day we walked a few blocks from our apartment to where the boats were docked and took the first boat that left for the Princes Island of Buyukada, knowing nothing about it we got on and were pleasantly surprised by its uniqueness. We took a 45 minute carriage ride around the island..great way to get a feel for it, cars are not allowed.

had a tasty lunch with grilled fish on the water at Ali Baba restaurant

sitting next to us when we got on the boat was a woman who was an experienced tour guide- we became friendly with her.. had just talked about needing a guide to tell us about the history of some of the old sights of the city- she was booked but referred us to another guide who ended up being an angel for us, taking us around the next day to some of the following sites and making a reservation for us in Turkish at the wonderful hotel on the Black sea.

Mike in bakery buying some Simit  

(a circular Turkish break encrusted with sesame seeds)

Went to the beautiful Istanbul Modern Museum, here were a few of our favorite pieces

There was a bookstore that had assorted books hanging from the ceiling in a huge space, amazing!

a very large mixed media collage and 3D paper (those conical shapes are 3D)

A Turkish artist, Semiha Berksoy who was also an opera singer had an entire room of her work. Her voice was projected with her opera singing, a powerful combination. She used  mainly paint on wood

 She passed away years ago, her paintings were our favorite pieces in the entire exhibition

This is Semiha getting ready for one of her operas

The main drag in Istanbul is colorful Istiklal street filled constantly with crowds of people

and street musicians- this particular group was entertaining because of the versatile

digeridoo

our guide took us to an authentic Turkish rug business, here is one of best weavers in the business doing her thing, knotting!

 They were so kind bringing us cold Turkish tea and giving us a wonderful rug show. Of course they were hoping to make a sale. The most exciting rug was a 100 year old kilim for a mere $25,000...the owner told us stories about the rugs and one of them was about Elton John stopping by a year ago, below is a photo of a rug Elton designed to be placed under his piano, it took them a year to make it!

Don't you just love the color? 100 times more vibrant in person, and so soft

Here we are inside the famous Blue Mosque named after the blue tile on the walls

 Blue Mosque, it was Ramadan (a time of fasting, prayer and celebration) everyday twice a day they broadcasted a call to prayer from speakers located on the minarets of all the mosques in the city. The same phrase was repeated 3 times

This is the dome of the famous church Hagia Sophia of Constantinople built by the Byzantine Emperor in 537 A.D. later converted into a mosque. Hagia Sophia means "Holy Wisdom". This is the jewel of Istanbul..it has withstood many earthquakes and when you walk around in it you feel holy. Instead of stair steps to go to the top one walks up ramps..they did this because the sultan was carried to a special viewing area by attendants, easier than stairs, besides the Black Sea swim this was my favorite place

This is one of the most incredible mosaics that was uncovered from a plaster coating when

the church was converted into a mosque. Removing the plaster caused much damage to many of the mosaic tiles but it was a smart move to do the plaster so as not to destroy the incredible work..these tiles are tiny

One night on the full moon we had a delightful rooftop dinner at 360 restaurant with a view of the Bosphorus straight and the old city  

dessert was Turkish rice pudding with sorbet and fresh fruit on ice, delicious

it was very hot and humid and I asked our guide where her favorite place was to go swimming. She not only told us but made a reservation at a place that only spoke Turkish and had only one room left due to a cancellation, this is the view from our room at the Kilya Hotel on the Black Sea (a 45 minute bus and tram ride from the city) enjoyed every minute!

a roasted corn merchant on the most beautiful beach of soft sand and warm water

This was the underground cistern- water supply for the sultan's palace. No one knows why the medusa head's were put at the base of some of the huge columns.

huge columns and arched roof made of stone

we wandered the back streets near the spice bazaar and observed so many characters

man washing his hands and face

what an intense, lively city!

Mike deep in thought

enjoying a cold drink after the bizarre

cool Turkish tea..mmmm.......

saw this beautiful medicine mosque on the Bosphorus boat tour

our last night we saw a traditional whirling dervish performance- four men do a meditation to live music, felt like it represents nature and the fluidity of life, loved it!

a sweet dog that followed us down to the beach and sat and watched us as we swam early one morning in the beautiful Black Sea, a reminder of the unconditional love animals provide

 now back in Copenhagen soaking up the last few days of this exceptional adventure before returning home. Thank you so much for coming along with me. I so look forward to HOME SWEET HOME and as always am sending  all my love

Helsinki - a pleasant surprise

Yes, Helsinki was a pleasant surprise..

I think Finland will catch on as time goes by and more and more people will go there and experience the beauty of the people and the gorgeous landscape. We took a boat to the island of Suomenlinna one day (only 15 minutes away)It was fortified with rock walls and gun ports for a Russian invasion that never happened.  We also  visited the beautiful 14th century town called Porvoo. The bus ride and the town gave us a glimpse of the Finnish countryside and a different perspective of Finnish culture. Our last day we took a traditional Finnish sauna which was so relaxing and invigorating. The Cultural sauna had  separate steam rooms for men and women with windows inside so one can see the boats in the ocean. After the steam became too hot, one would put on a bathing suit and jump in the sea. ahhh!  

Here are a few fun pieces from an invitational show at the Contemporary Museum of Art in Helsinki

These are both made with pencils

 This chandelier was made with chicken bones!

This sculpture a little smaller than life size was made from colored plaster- artist working from a blurry photo 

self-portrait by Tove Janssen

And at the Ateneum Museum a retrospective show of Tove Janssen, the most beloved famous Finnish painter and illustrator. The city is celebrating what would have been her 100th birthday, the three things she always had to have were cigarettes, vodka and crispy crackers..huge show!

Tove's family, she is in the center

In the old town of Porvoo we saw this young boy and girl playing music for tips, needless to say their tip jar was getting full- who can  resist that?

 I visited a papier maché shop and met Harri and Lena who have been artist's together for 30 years very much in love and make their own papier maché , they gave us their secret recipe can't wait to try it!

we discovered a special restaurant on the water called Notta- sat outside for hours, dining and watching the boats

yesterday morning we got up at 4am to make our flight to Copenhagen, it sprinkled on and off , feels good to be back here, so familiar and colorful, leaving tomorrow for Istanbul

sending much love and the best of July

 please keep your emails coming-

Stockholm Stories

Stockholm is a jewel of a city with its plentiful waterways and magical islands..we had a fabulous
time exploring the city the second time around, so nice to be familiar with the layout of the city.
 It all started with our delayed train trip from Gothenburg. There was a gas leak in another train so they had to reroute us but in those 3-4 extra hours we got to know a wonderful Swedish man sitting nearby. He told us that his
wife was dying- he had been taking care of her for the past year and
this trip was his first since then..he was going to see his 50th
"Rolling Stone" concert in Stockholm. He generously shared names of
his favorite restaurants and places that made our trip very special.
He even told us to use his name if we needed a table in one of them.
That is what makes travel so wonderful, the people!

having a great lunch at Riche restaurant on the water.

we stayed at Hotel Anno which has been in existence since 1647, loved it with its old staircases with embedded fossils. The breakfast room was bright and sunny and food was plentiful.

we visited our two favorite museums, the Moderna Museet and the Photografista on the water.

in front of museum were bright Calders

near the photografista museum, sunny day

Nils Dardel one of Sweden's most well known artists had a huge  retrospective show at the Moderna. He took part in the avant-garde in Paris

Also a surrealist show with many Marcelle Duchamp pieces..he was an artist who was difficult to catagorize-this is a photo of his feminine part he called Rose Sélany 

 

a series of Magritte drawings, playful and silly

Also there was an amazing bicycle show that documented the history of what the bike was used for from the early 20's, from military uses to modern day transportation..there were over 150 examples from wooden bikes to space age models..we loved it..here are a few photos of our favorite bike made like a car

This was made post WWII when there was not a lot of cars available, you had to assemble it yourself, it was not easy to assemble and was clumsy to pedal, but it was our favorite!

We took a bus to the Artipelag outside of Stockholm. This place is incredible..a huge new museum, two restaurants, hiking trails, outdoor amphitheater, beautifully designed structure overlooking the water with a vegetative rooftop, below are small figurative wooden sculptures part of a themed exhibition by Swedish artists

The biggest surprise was when we were walking past the Grand Hotel where all the dignitaries stay including Obama, there was a crowd gathered outside and we found out that Mick Jagger was coming out any minute to leave for his concert that night..had to stay to see him, this was the only photo I could get, people in front were tall..it was still exciting! he has the blue hat on..he was nice to take time to shake hands with fans on both sides of the barriers..

Our last night we had dinner with the friends we met last year, Kathleen and Victor..she works for Price Waterhouse Cooper and he is a real estate developer..turns out they will be moving to Buenos Aires, Argentina within the year to be with his children and grandchildren and because they are ready for a change..great people!

I was a tiny bit melancholy to leave my sweet Sweden but all good things must end. We arrived in Helsinki via air yesterday..only 40 minute flight..staying in a roomy apartment built in the 1920's..great Indian food last night, Mike got his wish (he has been wanting some for days) 

will keep you posted..

sending much love and still much light

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.” 

 -Anita Desai